You try a gold curb chain on in the shop mirror and it looks perfect. Two weeks later it hangs too low, flips over under your collar, or feels thin next to the pendant you bought for it. Most of those problems trace back to three choices made in a hurry at the counter: width, length and carat.

A gold curb chain is one of the easiest chain styles to wear and one of the easiest to get slightly wrong. Manna Jewellers, a family jewellery business in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter, stocks a gold curb chain range that runs from fine 0.8mm links up to heavy 4.2mm chains. Most are 9ct yellow gold, with 18ct, white gold and rose gold versions as well.

Quick takeaways

• A gold curb chain has flat, twisted links that lie smoothly against the skin and do not roll.
• Width sets the look: 0.8mm to 1.5mm is fine, 1.8mm to 3mm is a steady everyday weight, and 3.6mm upwards is a statement.
• 18 inch sits at the collarbone, 20 inch just below it, and 22 inch or longer suits layering and men's chains.
• 9ct gold is harder and costs less. 18ct has a richer colour and is softer.
• Hollow curb chains are lighter and cheaper. Solid chains cost more and hold their shape for longer.
• The chain should weigh more than any pendant hanging from it.
• Check the hallmark: 375 means 9ct and 750 means 18ct.

What is a gold curb chain?

A gold curb chain is made from small, identical links that are twisted a half turn and then pressed flat. The flattening is the whole point. The chain lies in one smooth plane, so it sits tidily on the neck and carries a pendant without fuss. A plain cable chain, whose links stand upright, behaves differently and tends to roll.

Some curb chains are diamond cut. Tiny facets are cut into the links so the surface flashes when you move, which makes a fine chain look brighter than its width suggests.

How wide should a gold curb chain be?

Width changes the character of a gold curb chain more than any other measurement. Chains of 0.8mm to 1.5mm are delicate and mostly worn to hold a small pendant. Between 1.8mm and 3mm, a gold curb chain has enough presence to wear alone and still slips under a shirt without a bump. Past 3.6mm it becomes a feature, and you will feel the weight.

Hold the chain against the pendant rather than judging it on its own. A 1mm chain with a chunky pendant looks underpowered. A 3mm chain with a tiny initial swallows it. If the shop allows, try two widths side by side before you decide.

Which length suits a gold curb chain necklace?

Chain lengths in the UK are quoted in inches, and the gap between sizes is smaller than it sounds.

• 16 inch: sits snug at the base of the neck.
• 18 inch: lands at the collarbone on most adults, and is the usual choice for a gold curb chain necklace with a pendant.
• 20 inch: falls a few centimetres lower, which suits open collars.
• 22 inch and longer: rests on the chest and works for layering.

Not sure? Wrap a piece of string around your neck where you want the chain to sit, then lay it flat against a ruler. An old shoelace does the job too.

9ct or 18ct: which carat for a gold curb chain?

Both are real gold. The difference is how much. 9ct gold is 37.5% pure gold and 18ct is 75%, with alloy metals making up the rest. That alloy makes 9ct harder, so it copes better with the knocks of daily wear, and it costs less. 18ct has a deeper, warmer colour but marks more easily.

For a chain you put on every morning and forget about, a 9 carat gold curb chain is the practical pick. The 1.8mm diamond cut version at Manna is offered in 16, 18, 20 and 22 inch lengths, polished and fitted with a clasp.

Hollow or solid gold curb chain links?

A hollow gold curb chain has a thin wall of gold around an empty centre. That makes them lighter and noticeably cheaper at a given width, which is how a wide chain becomes affordable. The trade-off is that a hard knock can dent a hollow link, and repairs are fiddly.

Solid links cost more because there is more gold in them. They take years of wear without changing shape. If the chain is wide and you plan to wear it daily, ask which construction you are looking at before you pay.

How does a gold curb chain compare with other chain styles?

Choosing a gold curb chain for men

A gold curb chain for men usually runs wider and longer than a women's chain. Widths of 2.5mm to 4mm at 20 to 24 inch are common, and heavy chains go well beyond that. The flat links stay comfortable against the neck, and a plain curb looks clean with an open shirt collar.

Expert tip: Gold chains over 1 gram must carry a hallmark in the UK. Look for the fineness number, 375 for 9ct or 750 for 18ct, next to an assay office mark. Birmingham's mark is an anchor. Ask to see it under a loupe before you pay.

Looking after a gold curb chain

Wash it in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid and a soft toothbrush, then rinse and pat it dry. Store it flat or hanging so the links do not tangle. Take it off before the pool, as chlorine is hard on the solder joints.

Photos flatten a chain's weight, and a screen cannot show how it moves on the neck. Chains at Manna are polished and finished in the Jewellery Quarter workshop, so you can handle one and judge the width against your own collarbone before you choose.

Frequently asked questions

1. What length gold curb chain should I buy? For a pendant, 18 inch is the usual starting point because it lands at the collarbone. Go to 20 inch if you like a lower drop. Men often choose 20 to 24 inch, depending on how the chain should sit against a collar.

2. Is a 9ct gold curb chain real gold? Yes. 9ct gold is 37.5% pure gold, with the rest made up of other metals for strength. A genuine 9ct chain carries the 375 hallmark, so check for it before buying.

3. Can I wear a gold curb chain every day? Yes, and 9ct holds up well to daily wear. Take it off for swimming and heavy exercise, and clean it every few weeks so skin oils do not dull the polish.

4. Is a hollow gold curb chain worth buying? It can be, if you want a wide look at a lower price. Just know that a hollow chain dents more easily than a solid one. Solid is the safer choice for a chain you will wear hard.

5. What is a good gold curb chain for men? Look at widths from 2.5mm upwards, in 9ct or 18ct, at 20 to 24 inch. Choose solid links if you want it to last under daily wear, and try the weight in person before you commit.